Valentino A/W 2016

“We want this show to be about living your moments, feeling each moment uniquely. I really love fashion. This job we do is a good opportunity to describe the time we’re in.”

Maria Grazia Chiuri

Valentino continue to dazzle us as we glide into the A/W 2016 collection.

With a tough act to follow, Valentino have enlisted Steven Meisel to challenge our conceptions for fall following the incredible S/S 16 shoot by none other than Steve McCurry. Movement, depth and use of poignant group compositions have been the cornerstone of the ad campaigns for Valentino this year.

In comparison to the quiet stillness and vast plains of the summer shoot, we see candid transient shots which give a sense of interruption and suspense. The movement works perfectly to highlight the soft silks, velvets and tulles that make up a fantastic array or evening wear.

Capturing these simplistic nude tones in a dance setting fits perfectly, reflecting on a commonality between the elegance and fluidity of dance wear and couture. Meisel has captured the drama of an opera with an ethereal like grace- the true essence of dance and it’s influence within this campaign.

We are introduced to a diverse range, the delicate muted tones- fit for the stage to glittering gowns and rich jewel tones. The difference in the garments in reminiscent of all elements of the stage, introducing dancers costumes and the elegant gowns donned by the audience.

Each shot seems to capture another moment, another show and we are ushered into the centre of the action. Each shot has been styled with precision, showing strength in crisp tailoring and dramatic silhouettes beside empire lines and soft angelic gowns. We are shown the versatility in the line, a range made with several styles in mind, simple but striking.

As we are immersed in this delightful Greek tragedy, we are greeted by a wonderfully familiar creative team. The work done by Meisel and long time creative partner Pat McGrath is transcendent, a beautiful depiction of a capsule wardrobe.

Meisel is well known for innovation, famed for in depth portraits and candid, truthful group compositions. His work is frequently found in the pages of Vogue, filled with; bursts of colour, pensive and agitated scenes which draw the eye and highlight the designs perfectly. The warmth used against a muted background frames an incredibly thoughtful design concept.

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vogue 2012 – Steven Meisel

What truly struck me about this collection is it’s wearability. At it’s core, this season is simple and elegant. It’s a style that can be adopted and interpreted widely, not just by those who are of the style elite. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have created an approachable collection which we can believe, will stand the test of time and beyond simply being worn for the season.

 

I look forward to seeing what is next for Valentino as the S/S17 season approaches with  Piccioli solely at the helm and Chiuri moves to Dior as creative director. I hope it will continue to include amazing photographers such as McCurry and Meisel, showing more of the depth we long to see in brand campaigns across the industry.

 

 

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